Skin Tone and its Relevance to Your Skin Health

What is SKIN TONE and why does it matter when choosing skincare products?Your skin tone is a direct result of the amount of melanin your skin produces and can be the difference between skin that is sensitive and burns easily or skin that may never burn but can be deeply pigmented or prone to discoloration (hyperpigmentation). No two dark spots are alike. Dark spots can develop from multiple triggers, including: exposure to UV rays, scarring, infection and skin irritation, or even melasma/chlorasma which is triggered by hormonal changes during pregnancy and exacerbated by UV exposure.  Freckles ‒not to be confused with age spots or dark spots‒are inborn and do not fall into the category of hyperpigmentation.

Human skin color is determined primarily by the amount and type of melanin (or skin pigment) it contains and can range from very dark brown, or almost black to very high concentrations to white with a pinkish tinge due to blood vessels underneath. Variations in skin color are mainly genetic in origin.

Despite what we may assume about skin hue and sensitivity, light skin can in fact withstand stress much better than skin of a darker tone. The reason lies below the surface. Pigmented cells in brown skin are larger and more loosely packed, which means the skin is often sensitive and tends to overreact to certain stimuli. For example, darker skin is more likely to scar and get irritated. Long after a blemish or cut heals, a dark mark is likely to linger on the skin. Even doing the right thing–using a sunscreen–can result in an unforeseen response, like a blotchy, reddened complexion.

Skin color may be the result of genetic adaptations which protect from sunburn, skin infections and skin cancer, vitamin D deficiency, or damage to skin cells. Sunlight intensity is associated with darker skin color while areas with low UV levels seems to lead to skin lightening.  This information is important to know when choosing skincare products, especially when it comes to sun damage protection and skin lightening choices.

While you may be deceived by airbrushed models on magazine covers, only a rare few will have a perfectly even skin tone. Time, sun damage and other factors will generally contribute to freckles, “age spots” and other discolorations, or just general “blotchiness.”

Skin Tone and Skin Type

Skin type is commonly classified using the Fitzpatrick Classification. It is a useful guideline that was designed as a means to calibrate the skin’s response to sun exposure, with regard to how it might respond to chemical peels and the risk of hyperpigmentation. Skin type can also be classified as oily, sensitive or dry, etc.
Skin color is divided into six categories called the Fitzpatrick Skin Types:

1. Type I (white) always burns, never tans. Tends to have freckles, red, brown, auburn, chestnut, or blond hair, blue, hazel, green or grey eyes.

2. Type II (white) usually burns, never tans. Tends to have light or dark hair, blue, green, hazel, brown or grey eyes.

3. Type III (light brown) burns occasionally, gradually tans. Usually has brown hair and blue, green, hazel, brown, or, rarely, dark brown eyes.

4. Type IV (moderate brown) minimally burns, always tans. Tends to have black to dark brown hair and blue, green, hazel, brown or dark brown eyes.

5. Type V (dark brown) rarely burns, profusely tans. Black hair and brown or hazel eyes.

6. Type VI (black) never burns, deeply pigmented. Black hair and dark brown eyes, with minor variations.

Getting that balanced skin
The pigment-producing cells of the skin are called melanocytes and their activity is the major determinant of the color of the hair and skin. Melanocytes are located at the bottom layer of the epidermis and are the first line of defense against skin cancer. Even subtle environmental changes affecting melanocytes can change skin tone. By using sun protection and caring for skin, you can avoid unwanted skin discoloration due to over-active pigmentation.

It can’t be said often enough: People of all skin types need to use sun protection. While people with skin of color may think they’re naturally protected from sun damage, they are actually more prone to react to exposure with dark marks and splotches. And while those with darker skin are less likely to develop skin cancer, when they do, it is more often the deadly kind–melanoma–and diagnosed late because of a lack of understanding about how it appears on dark skin.

For protection, medical experts recommend products containing titanium oxide or zinc oxide dimethicone, both are physical rather than chemical barriers, which can irritate the skin and break down after a couple of hours. The recommended daily sun protection factor (SPF) is 30.

Because sunscreen loses its effectiveness after two hours, it needs to be reapplied. Another option: Spritz with a sunscreen spray, or dust the face with loose SPF-fortified foundation powders.

The sun is your skin’s enemy. No matter the original cause of skin discoloration, the sun actively plays a role in exacerbating wrinkles, fine lines and unwanted dark patches or spots. Sunscreen is by far the single most important skincare product you should use, without it, the sun’s UV rays will send your melanocytes into overdrive. As you age, the overall level of skin pigments also increases, which is why adults often have a deeper baseline skin tone than they did as children. It also contributes to age spots or “liver spots,” those unwelcome blotchy skin discolorations.

These flat brown patches are limited to sun exposed skin (like the face and backs of hands and forearms) and begin to show up around age 40. By the age of 70, nearly ninety percent of all Caucasians have at least one.Fortunately, they are benign and do not tend to darken with repeat sun exposure. Freckles, on the other hand, typically develop in childhood. They are much smaller and they do get darker during the sunny summer months and then fade during the winter.

Other common causes of skin discoloration can be:
Inflammation - a small blemish, a bug bite or chronic friction can leave skin irritated and ultimately discolored.
Melasma - (aka the mask of pregnancy) caused by increasing levels of estrogen that over-activate pigment producing melanocytes, resulting in patchy skin discoloration across the cheeks, chin or forehead during pregnancy.

Treatment

So what can you do about uneven skin tone? Of course we can all use camouflaging make up or concealer to hide our dark spots, but there are a variety of methods and products designed to target and reduce skin discoloration directly.

One medi-spa option is Microdermabrasion, a skin-care technique that uses tiny rough grains to buff away the surface layer of skin. It can improve many unwanted skin conditions such as; sun-damaged skin, blotchy skin, acne scars and dark spots, or melasma. It also reduces fine lines, wrinkles.There are also a wide variety of topical skincare products that help remove skin discoloration and even out skin tone, from straight bleaching and lightening solutions to cleansers and lotions.

Many of these topical creams use an active lightening ingredient called Hydroquinone in varying percentages. Straight skin bleaching is designed to turn off melanin production and eliminate unwanted pools of pigment already present in the skin.  As with any chemical-based product, use with caution.

In 2006, the United States Food and Drug Administration revoked its previous approval of hydroquinone and proposed a ban on all over-the-counter preparations. (1) The FDA stated that hydroquinone cannot be ruled out as a potential carcinogen.Consequently, many manufacturers have begun to produce natural alternatives which mimic the skin lightening properties of hydroquinone.

Ingredients such as kojic acid and licorice have become quite popular along with more advanced ingredients like Alpha-Arbutin. When combined, these ingredients can often produce results that even surpass hydroquinone but without the associated risks.If you choose to bleach your skin and are concerned about harmful reactions, look for “paraben-free” and “Hydroquinone-free” options for lightening dark discolorations such as age and liver spots.

Natural skin brighteners such as those listed below, can dramatically improve cellular renewal in addition to firming and brightening the skin:

•    Alpha Arbutin
•    Beta-Arbutin
•    Kojic Acid
•    Licorice Extract
•    Niacinamide
•    Mulberry Extract
•    Glycolic Acid
•    Lactic Acid
•    Lemon Juice Extract
•    Vitamin C
•    Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
•    Yogurt
•    Peucedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract

You will see some immediate results with skin bleaching/brightening products, but the best results will be achieved after six to 12 months of continued use. Natural Zinc Oxide moisturizers will also restore hydration and defend against free-radical skin damage, protecting skin from damaging UVB and UVA rays. The effectiveness of any treatment will vary according to one’s skin type, how often the product is used and in what amount and how often it is applied. It is normally advised to use the same treatment for 4 -6 weeks to determine the effectiveness.

(1)    United States Food and Drug Administration (2006) Skin Bleaching Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Product Use; Proposed Rule. Docket 1978N-0065. (Report).

author - Rachelle Dupree
Vivoderm Marketing and Communications